Tuesday, June 18, 2013

Screencap article: Ethnic Dress Explanasian

  Michelle asked what I thought about white Americans wearing traditionally Asian looks such as frog clasps and brocade patterns in the comments the other day. I asked if I could write out a post in response, and she agreed. :D

  I think there is a difference between traditional ethnic costume and fashions or patterns inspired by different cultures' dress.

  Traditional examples

In the US:

  San Francisco Chinatown has a lot of this mass-produced traditional-ish stuff. I think it's cheap, but inoffensive. If I were to see a person decked out in this ensemble, I would probably think 'tourist' and maybe hang about helpfully for several extra seconds in case she or he needed directions.

Me:

  Chinese martial arts demo, Chinese martial arts uniform, not a Chinese person. Have not encountered any problems with this. Neither have my non-Asian friends.

  I also wore an ao dai to a friend's wedding, and her family thought it was awesome. (I did check first if anyone thought it would not be ok for a Japanese-descended person to wear one.)

Overseas:

  The folks pictured here (I don't know them, they just seemed nice and turned up in a Google image search) do not appear to be of Japanese descent, but this isn't at all offensive to me. I think it's cool when people wear traditional clothing and learn about it.

  My general outlook on persons of one culture wearing traditional costume of another culture: the contexts I have seen it in have been respectful (and look like fun) and I've never been offended.

  Be aware, however, that some traditional cuts/styles are made to suit certain body types. I remain convinced the current super short leggy trends in the US are not designed for daikon ashi, while Victorian/Edwardian cuts flatter a high bust and long waist that are more common among Japanese, which may play a role in the Gothic/Lolita/Steampunk subculture fashions there.

'Inspired by' designs


  Items like these look "inspired by"to me- the patterns or elements have ethnic origin, but they do not look like traditional ethnic dress. I personally wouldn't think anything was out of the ordinary if I saw these items worn on the street. A lot of my own clothes are in this category- I call them 'AZN' or 'JPN.'

  We're a shrinking world. We have the Internet and all sorts of global trade going on, but even centuries ago, there is a recorded history of fascination with other cultural dress.

  However, context matters. Urban Outfitters got in trouble not long ago for 'Navajo' labeled items in their stores. While copyright of actual patterns is a dicey matter, there is such a thing as sensitivity to a historically marginalized group with a rich cultural history, and this issue seriously looked like insensitivity or outright stupidity. The sense I got is the objection was to the lack of respect and the items bearing the Navajo name (a pattern-wrapped flask, for example) being tacky, which brings us to the third category.

Tacky




  There's any number of tacky things out there that fetishize other cultures. There is, I think, a difference between inspiration/artistic license and a stereotype/fetish, and these items look like the latter to me.


   See, Asian people are wearing these and they still look terrible.


I got a kick out of these labels

  I put stuff like this into the "offensive because it's ugly/tasteless" category. I don't think my objection stems from Asian patterns or cuts being worn by non-Asian people, I think it comes from the item's purpose being to sexualize or objectify a culture, often in an ignorant way.

  My overall take is that I have no truck with fashion or style that draws inspiration from Japanese culture being worn by persons of all ethnic origins. Doing research about the origin of a particular pattern or clothing technology is interesting and fun. I think there is also such a thing as tasteless fetishism. In an ideal world, wearing something for its beauty and for the happiness it brings you should not be a problem, but social issues can be complicated.

  As one of the less disenfranchised minority groups in the US, I have a privileged position. I cannot claim to speak at all for what another person might feel, and I imagine opinions vary within and between ethnicities on traditionally-inspired dress.

  I have wondered about what people think of the recent tribal print trend, among other things.

  What about your own experiences with your style inspirations? Have you noticed trends or people wearing culturally-inspired dress?

Disclaimer

  First, I am speaking for myself (American of Japanese and Taiwanese descent) in this post. There are many issues both in and out of my ethnicity of which I am ignorant. I welcome clarification and sharing, and apologize if any mistakes I make cause offense.

  Second, in the United States, the majority is currently white Americans (and 'white' is such a hodgepodge of different cultural backgrounds). There's a power/privilege dynamic there. However, human beings the world over have quite the history of power dynamics. Take the history of Korea and Japan. Or Ireland and England. This is not a X-group-is-awful post.

  Confession: first time I saw a chain clothing store that sells tropics themed hot weather wear (I will call it Andy Caicos) I thought "colonialism."

  Cheers!

Saturday, June 15, 2013

Screencap Post 3

  Stress! Sometimes you think you have a respite, but it comes back sooner than you expected. Have some photos and links. (:

The dress I wore in this post is being sold on eBay in size 12.

The same style vest I wore here is sold here and there on eBay:
XXL black
L silver
M black denim floral
M army green
  It looks like the Chinese OEM sells the same vest to a bunch of distributors that slap different brand names on it, then sell them to those cheap junior clothing retailers in strip/ malls the country over.
  I'm watching aliexpress with interest because it's an internet site where people can buy from Chinese sellers overseas instead of through the ones here in malls. I don't know how it does business, because the sheer volume of repeat items and noise to signal ratio is mind-boggling. If you like seeing the commons dilemma in action, saunter on over and try to find this vest. Or try to find anything.

I found an Etsy shop for Japanese punk fashions by a Spanish artist.

  The outfit isn't my style, but I love this headdress. I wonder if its shape is too close to culturally significant turbans for me to pull off or if it would be ok.

Discovered artist Madéleine Flores's tumblr

   Mother of the Bride taffeta gown: The lines of this dress and jacket caught my eye, though I don't know what's matronly about it.

  I'm so tired of strapless everything when it comes to nicer dresses. I love Michelle Rodriguez forever for this.

Friday, June 14, 2013

The OzzC 2

  Ok, same routine as before. Here is the website photo:


 Here I am after traipsing about Santa Ana all day in it:



  The dress is from the Ozz Oneste line, while the jacket yesterday is Ozz Croce. OzzOn Japan makes four lines of clothing- Oneste is urbanized/punk Asian, Croce is goth/punk, Ozz Angelo is Victorian/Lolita, and there's a Rozen Kavalier line that is... extremely floral? I'd hoped to have links to each section of the website, but it is still down.

  The color turned out darker than I'd thought from the photo, navy rather than medium blue, and this makes me like it even more. My family says it looks like a martial arts dress. I take it to mean it is attractively tough. Toughly attractive?

  It's stretchy and extremely comfortable. The only problem is the asymmetrical zipper doesn't shut all the way down the pleated silver hem, so there's a bit of a thigh slit, and as the skirt is loose, that opening can shift around. I shopped my mom's closet and wore a skirt under it today, and will probably use a pair of black or navy shorts in the future.


 I've never owned anything like this before. Right now I want to wear it every day for the rest of my life, though I'm sure the novelty will wear off with time. Does it look like a costume rather than everyday wear? What do you do to dress up or dress down an item and make it work for everyday use?

  Would anyone be interested in me putting up more photos on my hard drive of OzzOn Japan website photos?

Thursday, June 13, 2013

The OzzC

  Southern Californiaaaaa. My dear friends Cathy and M. here are ensuring that I eat my way from one end of Orange County to the other. What one loses to stress, one can gain back in Japanese fried chicken.

  I brought the most basic of Aya basics on the trip because it's just a week, but I do get a big ol' sartorial bonus: my mom brought home OzzOn (website down for maintenance. not helpful, guys!) clothes from Japan for me!

  Here are the website photos of the jacket and camisole I wanted:



  Here I am after reassuring my family I would have come to visit them even if I wasn't picking up the sweetest of sweet fashions from Japan:

Still seeking camisole. Will not rest until it is found.

  Last year my friend Athena (the first person I'd ever seen who dresses like me) introduced me to this brand when she sported a rockin' grey coat to summer school. I loved the look, but they only ship within Japan, and when I went on my trip in winter, the items I wanted were gone.

  Last month when I was taking a break from stressing out studying, I found the jacket I'd desired on their discount website for ~75% off. Two days after that, I found a dress I'd been looking for used on a Japanese auction site. Best sartorial birthday ever! Well, maybe tied with the Karen Millen jacket birthday. But maybe still the best.

MOAR FOTO



  The brand has so much detail in its clothing. The zippers are matte black. The little buttons have raised dragons on them that match the collar embroidery. There's extra stitching at the elbow to help the jacket crimp where you bend your arm. The only pity's the jacket is a summer lightweight piece, not lined and padded like I'd expected for San Francisco life.


  Here is regular me without the jacket. Note the absence of cool mystique aura. The tank top is actually a yoga shirt. I was big into wearing exercise clothes that looked like regular clothes for years. I could have a t-shirt that reads 'Ask me about my Asian-themed sportswear collection.'

  I think this is the first outfit I've worn on the blog that has no thrifted items. I should have pointed this out to my family. They might have been excited, since normally my thrifting habits garner gentle exhales and whatever the subtle Japanese equivalent of eye-rolling is.

  My OzzOn dress is going to be featured tomorrow. :D (Spoiler: it's fabulous and makes me excited.) Does your family travel and bring cool things back? What was/is your favorite birthday gift?

Tank top: Roots (old)
Jeans: 7 for all mankind dojo style (gift)

Wednesday, June 12, 2013

Dressed for cleaning, take 2

  Another day indoors organizing my apartment. I'm trying to finish as much of my spring cleaning as possible before I leave for a week to visit family.


  Does this vest look kind of steampunk-y? This is my first foray into orange territory. I never thought I'd wear anything remotely orange! I feel very adventurous.

  The dress is my favorite color of blue-grey. While I'm still very partial to it, I'm doing my best to add other colors to my daily wear. My wardrobe used to be mostly blue shirts and blue jeans plus running shoes (an example). Totally serious. Even branching out into black, a neutral, was strange for me at first.

  The vest is fake leather, and was very inexpensive. I was surprised considering the unique detailing, the functional (!) buttoned pockets in the front, and the back:


  I guess I should shop at cheap junior clothing stores when they are closing more often!


  I can't think of a terrible/good 'vest' pun, or any other name for this outfit. Suggestions welcome.


Vest: Last Kiss (Styles For Less)
Dress: Old Navy (thrifted)
Leggings: UNIQLO
Boots: Kensiegirl Roper boots (thrifted)

Tuesday, June 11, 2013

Off-Duty Superhero

  Well, this is definitely one way this blog has affected me: when faced with the choice of just wearing my workout clothes all morning before practice or dressing up as an off-duty superhero, the choice is clear.


  I didn't have anything in mind other than the weather (not cold but overcast with a strong damp wind) when I started getting dressed, I just thought I looked like an off-duty Asian superhero when I was done, and decided to stick with it because there are few enough of us. Oh Psylocke, thou who art literally a white woman Orientalized for exotic sex appeal. *sigh*

  It's probably the arm socks that make the whole superhero look. I love covered arms and bared shoulders. I find it sexy in a less-is-more way, and not the "I am bashing you over the head with the bat of my sexuality! MY LADY PARTS, LOOK AT THEM." way that makes me leery of some clothing.


  Speaking of the arm socks, these are actually leg warmers. It's just they are leg warmers from *Asia* which means I tore stitching the two times I tried to get them over my calves, so now they are arm warmers. Sometimes I wish they would make a separate category of martial arts clothes. They would be just like regular clothes, only with much bigger leg holes.

  I can't take credit for coming up with putting them on my arms. The salesgirl somehow managed to convey this clever second use to me, despite the two of us not having any languages in common. I think she took one glance at the ol' stancemakers and knew the primary function wasn't going to work out.


  I've had this shirt since I was a teenager. It was one of the first things I bought when I went to University (the first time) and it sat, cherished, in my closet for a decade and a half because I didn't know what I'd wear it for. The answer, as I know now, is for kicks and giggles.

  The trousers are dri-fit yoga pants from Nike, also well over a decade old. I thought they looked kind of Japanese, with the wrap-around tie waist and extra flaps hanging in front.  I've worn them as work trousers countless times. The shoes are Candie's platform booties that I wrote about (and shoved a rock into) last month. The rock worked! The insteps stretched the heck out and I now stride unhobbled to protect humankind. The rock is staying on in my apartment as my personal low-cost shoe stretcher.

Jacket: Laundry by Shelli Segal (Last Call by Neiman Marcus, old)
Shirt: Mimoa (very old)
Arm/Leg warmers: Owl Woman (Taiwan)
Pants: Nike Dri-fit (very old)
Shoes: Candie's (thrifted)